Makeup

• used to indicate tribe membership or protect against elements by painting yourself • protect eyelids from sun • naturally occurring products (clay, crushed gemstones, annatto (from tree), paprika, turmeric, seaweed, cochineal (carmine – comes from crushed up beetles), etc)

• since early 20th century • steep dig in purchasing habits from 2020 onwards when people worked from home

• oral care • skin care • body care • perfume • decorative cosmetics - this one • hair care • sun care

any substance or mixture intended to be placed in contact with the various external parts of the human body…with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance and/or correcting body odours and/or protecting them or keeping them in good condition UK - trading standards (in 2021) and advertising standards USA - Food and Drugs administration (FDA)

• some are drugs e.g. anti-dandruff shampoo is medicinal to treat dandruff • some are both e.g. toothpaste with fluoride (cosmetic with drug to treat tooth decay) and concealer for acne (cosmetic with drug to treat acne)

FDA - a drug but UK - not a drug

• some components are only authorised for use in a particular product e.g. some pigments used in makeup cannot be used on the eyes

• cosmetics Europe 1 - nail varnishes (nitrocellulose-based paint) 2 - foundations - mineral (rock based) or traditional (talc based although talc is hydrated magnesium silicate which is a mineral) - this encompasses concealers, bb/cc creams, tinted moisturisers 3 - powders - finishing product - mattify and set makeup underneath 4 - blushes - bronzers and highlighters too 5 - lipsticks and lip glosses - differences in compositions based on ratio of waxes to oils (lipstick have more wax than lip glosses) 6 - lip and eyeliners - film formers, thickeners and pigment - similar to paint compositions 7 - mascaras - PVP, waxes, black iron oxide - useful for determining who was driving when airbag goes off 8 - eyeshadows - talc/mica based - kaolin boron nitride (replacement for talc as someone in US said talc causes ovarian cancer)

• there are a variety of products • there are lots of manufacturers (some own multiple brands) - this means their products may contain same ingredients • there are lots of brands and product lines within the brands • e.g. 9 foundations with different colours for each - will have different pigment concentrations • excellent discrimination potential • there are lots of different formulations • loose powders, pressed powder, liquids, gels, mousses, sticks, creams • lots of methods of application • fingers, brush, sponge (wet/dry), contaminated with something else on brush • mixtures • cosmetic trace left behind is a mixture of all products that person has decided to wear • all mixed up on face, mixed with sweat/sebum, mixed with fibres dropped on face, any pollen • this provides a unique form of TE - will be very discriminatory

• some cosmetics are multi purpose and someone can use product in place where it isn’t instructed to be used • complicated trying to categorise cosmetic marks at scene - what products might they have come form

• cosmetic use is increasing so more traces • use is independent of age, gender, ethnicity and socio-economics • not just used to beautify (cover scars, blemishes, tattoos and hyperpigmentation etc. (more likelihood of males wearing makeup) • easily transferred, particularly with violent force • relatively persistent and difficult to wash out • good for cases with lack of standard physical evidence and where there is an absence of any matches on DNA/fingerprint database • reconstruction of event - activity level propositions • number, location and intensity of transfers • uncommon cosmetics and layering combinations increase probative value • e.g. cosmetics brought on holiday not sold in home country • makeup deposits can be seen unlike perfume, shampoo, moisturiser, etc.

• Marie Latelle was murdered • main suspect was boyfriend but had alibi (playing cards with friends) • Locard suspicious of circumstances as evidence of strangulation • fingernail scrapings from boyfriend was looking for skin cells but found pink dust attached to these cells • identified common makeup components (rice starch, bismuth, magnesium stearate, zinc oxide, red iron oxide) • this pink powder was found in Marie’s room • it was custom-made powder from chemist in Lyons • found this was only ever made for Marie • boyfriend convicted for murder • alibi - he had wound the clock back so his friends gave him an alibi

• cosmetics tend to prefer pigments, not dyes • mainly inorganic (mineral) for facial • organic (lakes) for lipsticks

• used as extenders • calcium carbonate • talc • china clay • silica

• denotes two polymorphs • anatase and rutile • they have the same CI number but very different crystalline structure so give vastly different raman structure

• pearlescent: • gives a subtle colour and reflects bright white light • ‘pearl-like’ lustre and look sheen • interference (iridescent): • reflect and refract light • they distort light to give different effects • colour changes relative to angle of observation/illumination • ‘rainbow like’ - oil spills, kingfisher feathers, CD surface, fish scales (guanine)

• phenomenon where surfaces appear to change • guanine from fish scales • found in high-end makeup products

• shimmer, not the same as glitter

• metal oxide layers (TiO2, Fe2O3 etc.) coated on mica substrate (mica is a naturally occurring silicate mineral (rock) - use muscovite form in cosmetics) • combination of type, thicknesses and numbers of layers of metal oxides gives you interference effects • around 500 nm thick - therefore translucent

• mica is in middle sandwiched between TiO2 • or Fe2O3 instead • mica has low RI and TiO2 has high RI (high opacity hiding white pigment) • this distinction gives you interference effects • it affects the way that light not only reflets off but transmits through so we see different colours • colourant, titanium dioxide, mica, titanium dioxide, colourant • where colourant = metal oxide • metal oxide allows to create any colour you like • thickness of metal oxide layers (and type) dictate colours reflected and transmitted • colour wheel opposites • if reflect yellow, transmit blue • if reflect red, transmit green

• borosilicate glass (Pyrex) • silica (basically sand) • alumina (aluminium oxide) • borosilicate in middle, then protective layer than metal oxide chosen for desired effect • borosilicate in middle, then TiO2, then SiO2, then TiO2 (gives different colours due to complexity of layering system) • no worries at moment about mica but it is finite • properties: • thinner and more uniform (mica is natural but these are synthetically created so can control surface and make flatter/smoother • colourless (mica is yellow which isn’t desirable if end result isn’t yellow • lower RI than mica, only serves to increase intensity of interference effect

secondary electron - surfaces, topology and texture back scatter - differences in density or chemical composition based on weight of atoms that are there

larger pigment = larger plates = brighter = more metallic finish

• air dry wet garments in controlled environment, store in paper bags to prevent mould growth • never package with debris from scene • cosmetic traces adhere better to garments/bedding/upholstery/carpets etc. as they are not solid materials like fibres • solid to start with some of it but when applied to face and left there to mix with body oils once deposits as a trace it is a liquid • therefore it adheres more and not looking at same evidence as fibres/paint evidence • whole item recovery is preferable with collection of traces in a controlled lab environment • stained areas should be protected from transferring onto other areas of object as location is important • if immovable, samples must be collected for transfer and substrate using scalpel blade • control sample as close to sample as possible but not on it • refrigeration is dependent on DNA presence but it is preferable to be kept at room temp