Coastal Processes
暂无描述。系统推荐的高质量记忆内容，适合每天坚持背诵学习。
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how do waves form?
by friction with air - energy from wind is transferred to waves on the surface
does the water move in waves?
no -> only energy transfers
in what motion do water particles move?
circular orbits
does orbit diameter increase or decrease with distance from the bottom?
increases
is there energy loss when waves reflect from objects?
no -> energy is only transferred not loss
crest
highest point of wave
trough
lowest point of the wave surface -> not the point deep in the water column only the SURFACE
wave length
from crest to crest
height
amplitude - trough to crest
period
t - sec - time of passage of successive crests
velocity
L/t for waves in deep water
depth
half of L of a wave L/2
does the whole water column move horizontally?
NO - circular motion at the top
what happens with D> L/2?
water motion is negligible
what happens in deep water with waves?
in deep water-> wave action diminishes
what happens to waves in shallow water?
wave action does not diminish, wave energy reflects off the bottom -> waves feel the bottom -> water depth is less than half the length (D < L/2) - wave becomes elliptical and particles are displaced -> when water gets too high it breaks
what happens when H to L ratio is greater than 1/7?
wave is unstable and collapses (breaks)
is the wave stable or unstable when heigh is 1/7 the length?
wave is stable
what does the surface tension of water allow for?
energy to be captured
whats the order of waves?
ripple then swell then waves
how is the final wave height determined?
• average velocity of wind • length of time the wind blows • fetch - distance over surface which the wind blows
what are the two types of wind waves?
• local seas: short period, irregular -> wind driven • swell: long period, reg, independent of local winds -> driven by distant weather conditions
what are rogue waves?
• not wind waves • usually huge waves without warning • wave reinforcement -> 2 waves interacts and wave height is added together • interaction of storms with currents
whats an example of rogue waves?
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