Makeup

• Clay • Crushed gemstones • Annatto • Paprika • Tumeric • Seaweed • Cochineal (carmine)

• Oral care • Sun care • Skin care • Hair care • Body care • Perfume • Decorative cosmetics

• Toothpastes • Mouthwashers • Flosses

• Creams • Lotions • Oils • Gels • Sprays

• Cleansing lotions • Facial masks • Serums • Shaving creams • Exfoliators • Hydrating & anti-ageing creams • Toners • Moisturisers • Eye creams

• Soaps • Antiperspirents • Body washes • Oils • Shower gels • Body lotions • Scrubs

• Lotions • Sprays • Shampoos • Conditioners • Serums • Texturisers • Mousses • Anti-dandruff shampoo • Hair colourants

• Lip & eyeliners • Lipstick & glosses • Nail varnishes • Blushes • Foundations • Powders • Eye shadows • Mascaras

• Scented oils • After shave • Salves • Perfumes

Any substance or mixture intended to be placed in contact wiht the various external parts of the human body … with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance and/or correcting body odours and/or protecting them or keeping them in good conition

• UK/EU cosmetic regulations are enforced by Trading Standards • FDA regulates cosmetic production in USA • Some products may be classified as a drug not cosmetic (anti-dandruff shampoo) • Some products can be both (toothpaste wiht fluoride) • FDA regards sunscreen as a drug but the UK/EU does not • Some components are only authorised for use in a particular product (some pigments in makeup cannot be used on the eyes)

• Variety of products • Manufacturers • Brands and product lines • Colours, shades and tones • Formulations • Methods of application • Mixtures (multiple products applied on one area)

• Cosmetic use increase - more traces • Independent of age, gender, ethnicity, socio-economics • Can cover scars, blemishes, tattoos and hyperpigmentation • Easily transferred, particularly with violent force • Relatively persistent and difficult to wash out • Uncommon cosmetics or layering combinations increase probative value • Unlike other cosmetics you tend to see makeup deposits • Can be used in cases that lack standard physical evidence and can also provide investigative leads

• Mainly inorganic (mineral) for facial products • Mainly organic (lakes) for lipsticks • Particle size determines properties • TiO2 (0.25 um) used for maximum opacity - nano TiO2 (< 0.1 um) used for sunscreens

Extenders * Calcium carbonate * Talc * China clay (kaolin) * Silica

• Pearlescent - subtle colour and bright white reflection, ‘pearl-like’ lustre (gives a less intense effect than metallic) • Interference (iridenscent) - light reflection and refraction, colour changes relative to angel of observation/illumination, ‘rainbow-like’, can be natural or synthetic

• Thickness and composition of layers determines colour seen • Flakes much thinner but larger than other pigments • Another source is guanine Cl 75170 - got from fish scales

The phenomenon where surfaces appear to change colour

Shimmer: * Natural product * Mica is the main substrate with metal oxide layers on top * Irregular shapes Glitter: * Plastic/synthetic * Regular shapes

Mica has a low RI and is in the middle of metal oxides which have a higher RI * Low RI and high IR change how the light reflects through the substance to produce the interference pigments * By increasing the complexity we can create any colour * Thickness and type of metal oxide layers dictate the colours reflected and transmitted

• Borosilicate glass • Silica • Alumina - Thinner and more uniform than natural mica - Colourless (mica is slightly yellow) - Lower RI than mica so more interference

• Air dry wet garments in controlled environment • Store in paper bags to prevent mould growth • Dont package with debis from the scene • If the substate is large/immovable, use a scalpel blade to collect eh sample • Preferable to keep at room temperature but refrigeration dependant on the presence of DNA

• Gross examination, recovery and collection • Preliminary evaluation of physical characteristics • All microscopic techniques (flurescence) • Microspectrophotometry - colour determination • Infrared spectroscopy - organic content/silicones • Raman spectroscopy - inorganic pigments • SEM-EDX - SE mode for surface topology & BSE mode fo homogeneity • XRF - elemental composition • XRD - crystal structure and polymorphs

• Colour matrix/particles • Distribution of pigments • Particle morphology • Surface topology • Mica vs synethetic (mica can be made synthetically though and will have fluorine in it so can be differentiated by SEM-EDX) • Borosillicate glass • PMMA/silica spheres (RI measurments • Component encapsulation